I recently returned from an unforgettable fishing experience in the boundless muskegs of Southeast Alaska. While late September weather in the North Country can be fierce and unforgiving, we found temperate skies, unseasonably clear waters and hillsides ablaze in spectacular fall colors. The cold and rain abated until our last day and we spent hour upon hour wandering the lonely sloughs and rivulets, tramping along sandy river bars tracked with the passing of moose and bear. We caught an absurd number of coho too. Bright, hooked-nosed, sea lice encrusted salmon that rode the morning tide into our stringy pink flies where they fought with a wildness that left us shaking after each encounter. Great friends, great fish, great times.